NAO: Summer Patio Launch Party

By: Carly Spears

The tables are out and the streets are lined with people buzzing over drinks and snacks – it must be summer in Toronto. 

This was definitely the case on Avenue Road last Thursday night at the official opening of NAO’s summer patio. Bustling with stylish young professionals sipping Moscow Mules and tossing back freshly-shucked oysters, it was clear that the “Summer of NAO” had officially started. 

Having eaten a decent but fairly unmemorable meal in the dining room following the launch of the steakhouse last year, I wasn’t sure what to expect by attending this event. Much to my surprise, each and every canapé I sampled was uniquely crafted and absolutely delicious. 

We started at the far right side of the patio, set up with a 10-foot-long oyster bar. Here, East Coast oysters shucked-to-serve were available to be topped with your choice of fresh horseradish, homemade cocktail sauce and a wide variety of fruit vinegar mignonettes. I opt for the cocktail sauce, blueberry and cucumber mignonettes – each of which was a refreshing and unique change for someone who typically steers clear of horseradish. 

Moving on, we find ourselves intrigued - running to grab the ceramic Chinese-style soup spoons filled with additional raw seafood options. First up was the ceviche spoon. Raw bay scallops accompanied by rock shrimp and a fresh jalapeno offered an explosion of perfectly balanced flavours fresh from the sea. The next spoon, however, was the winner for me. A meaty slice of hamachi, curled up with a jalapeno was swimming in a delicious pool of sweet and sour yuzu, providing bursting sensation for each and every section of my taste buds. 

On the deep fried front, panko-crusted, kimchi-topped crab cakes and delicately battered tempura shrimp were each served with their own unique house-mayo as garnish. While both were inventive and delicious plays on classics, these were probably two of the more underwhelming canapés of the night. 

As a contemporary steakhouse, we knew there had to be beef coming out soon. We were not wrong. Following the crab cakes and shrimp, we were finally greeted with dry aged beef in the form of both gyoza and sliders. Served with a light ponzu sauce and scallion wasabi, the pan-fried gyoza were a pleasant “upscale” play on the Japanese classic.

Nonetheless, the sliders were definitely the highlight here (and, maybe, of the night). Sitting on homemade truffle aioli and topped with caramelized onions, two succulent mini beef patties lay sandwiched between a freshly baked house slider bun. As the juice began to drip down the side of my wrist, all I could think about was how I needed to get another!

While searching for more sliders, we had no choice but to start digging into not one, not two, but four mini dessert options flowing our way. Because, what’s a summer launch party, or any dinner for that matter, without some delicious sweets? Featuring items from their daily “pie trolley” each mini version of dessert was better than the next. 

A fan of anything and everything Nutella, I was excited to see a group of mini whoopie pies featuring a chocolate hazelnut ganache sitting on a caramel-drizzled, rose-petal lined serving plate. 

Next, raspberry coconut cream pies and yuzu tarts, lined up on long white plates, started making their way from the kitchen. Each of which were built on a crispy, yet tender, buttery tart shell, and filled with deliciously sweet but balanced fillings.

Finally: the cheesecake tart. Simple, right? Wrong. Upon biting into the crackling chocolate-coated phyllo shell, we soon found out that it was actually a goat cheese filling! Offering a uniquely tangy twist on this classic dessert, this was a more than pleasant surprise to end the night with. 

I don’t know whether or not this is the Summer of NAO but, I can tell you this, I would host a patio party here any day!

Carly Spears is a marketing and communications professional who writes about and photographs food from Toronto and on various travels around the world. Follow her on Instagram @thechewreview

NAO Steakhouse

Steakhouses have long been a place of pomp and circumstance where businessmen make deals while they enjoy steak and potatoes with a glass or two of 35-year-old whisky. The doyen of Toronto restaurateurs, Hanif Harji and Charles Khabouth's NAO is not your typical, stuffy steakhouse. NAO stands for new and old and the duo has modernized the traditional steakhouse by giving the restaurant a feminine and sleek aesthetic. 

As the culinary master behind some of the city's most celebrated restaurants including Byblos andPatria, executive Chef Stuart Cameron's reputation precedes him. With NAO, he has turned the traditional steakhouse on its head with his inventiveness and by drawing upon inspiration from Japanese cuisine. While NAO caters to the most discriminating of steak lovers, it also offers lighter fare for those wishing to enjoy a smaller meal. 

I recently visited NAO for its one year anniversary to see firsthand just how it differentiates itself from the established steakhouses in Toronto. The focal point of the elegant restaurant is an impressive and unique chandelier, which is made from clear sporadic acrylic tubing. Yorkville is still the place to see and be seen and the swiveling Italian made chairs ensure that you have a 360-degree view of the action around you. As I took in my surroundings, I was greeted by the manager and led upstairs where I was ready to enjoy an evening out after a long day at the office. 

Dinner commenced with our pleasant server preparing the table side tuna tartar ($22) before our eyes. He gingerly mixed avocado, wasabi and puffed rice with the tuna as we eagerly watched him. 

I adored the Miami short ribs ($15) which were presented on a dainty, floral patterned plate. Moist with XO sauce, the delicious combinations of burnt honey and spicy sesame gave the short ribs bursts of sweet and savoury flavours. Never in my relatively short life, have I ever had a craving for kale salad, but there's a first for everything.

My mouth still waters at the memory of tasting the most extraordinary shredded kale salad ($13) with pickled shiitake mushrooms, fried shallots and spicy sesame dressing.

The main event is most certainly the steak and NAO offers the finest dry aged cuts of meat from around the world, as well as locally sourced meat. I shared the tender and flavourful swinging rib Canadian prime ($145) and the generous, fatty bone in Canadian Angus ($130). I thoroughly enjoyed the perfectly cooked and seasoned porterhouse steak, which did not require any of the melange of sauces or salts that accompanied it. Brussels sprouts ($14) plus bacon cured with miso equals a winning side dish to complement and balance the steak. 

The Japanese influence extends into the culinary offerings available, such as Kobe strip loin ($85 per 4 oz) chicken kaarage ($12) and even creamed spinach with yuzukosho ($13)

Those with more traditional palates need not fear, for mashed potatoes are indeed offered on the menu. For something different, try the dense rosti ($15) with crème fraiche. Crispy and golden on the outside and tender and chewy on in inside, it is a filling and satisfying dish. The creamy mac and cheese ($14)made with Gruyere and smoked bacon can serve as a main or can be shared to accompany a meal. What's more is that the pasta is hand-rolled for freshness. 

As if we could eat another morsel, our server rolls out a pie trolley ($12) and presents it with a flourish. Rarely is banana banoffee pie offered on a dessert menu in Toronto. I was in for a real treat when I tasted the heavenly dessert. The crunchy pastry is flaky and tastes like shortbread. This alone was enough for me, but I just could not resist a bite of the filling. Milk chocolate shavings strewn upon fresh whipped cream garnishes the pie, while the inside is layered with moist, flambéed bananas and delectable banana cream. It was the most novel and decadent ending to a meal that I have had in long time.  

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Photos: Joel Levy Photography, Jesse Milns hotography and Paula Wilson.